The Antique Market

A friend of ours invited me to one of the antique markets in old town Saturday.  I was pretty excited and envisioned a leisurely stroll down a quant little market street, stopping occasionally to pick up the odd rare find that I would later bring to Antiques Road Show and discover that our retirement fund was no longer necessary.  Yep, ambling along sipping hot tea while the smells of steamed buns and freshly cooked meats tantalized; that was going to be us.

The day started out normally enough when we decided to meet at Starbucks to grab a coffee and from there pick up a taxi.  Starbucks in China is stunningly similar to the U.S., with the notable exception of a few additional tea offerings and pastries like Red Bean Scones (sorry Dad for making your mouth water, I’m sure there will be some when you visit).

From there we hit the road, ending up at a part of town called “

Walking Street

”; sounds like a pretty good start to my vision right?  We soon found ourselves in a temple that during the weekend turns into this market.  Remember my Auchan visit?  It was much like that with a sea of humanity milling around and haggling.  The things there ranged from very cool pieces (authenticity doubtful) to things picked from the trash and rubbed with dirt.  I thought it was great actually, mainly because it was just Joey and I with no kids to keep an eye on or Rebecca saying “Really?” to the foundational pieces I was selecting for my new dragon collection.

I have been known to buy things just to be able to sharpen my negotiating skills.  This was a little different experience as every time I picked up something and asked how much it was, a small crowd gathered to see what I was interested in and how bad I was getting hosed.  I picked up a few things where the starting price was 800 RMB and I walked away with them for 100.  Not bad, but I’m sure a local probably could have gotten it for 50.  Oh well, just the chance to haggle in Chinese was worth the money that I over paid.

In the afternoon, the oldest boys and I ran to U-Town, which is a huge electronics mall.  There we had our Wii updated to play Chinese games and blew all of Riley and Reid’s money (Riley’s birthday was Friday; I’ll do a post on that later this week).  This put me over the edge of sensory overload.  Thankfully we went to a restaurant that evening where they had a kids play area, beer and tolerable Mexican food.  I also took a 2 hour nap Sunday to recover.  Pitiful…

Someone this morning mentioned that while in China you hear people reference experiences and you realize that there is so much more to the story.  I also read on another blog that every day in China you see something that you don’t see every day.  Both are true, although I’ve done my best to relay the experience and hopefully the picture of the pet store on a bike is something new to you.  Oh yeah, and the only meats we encountered were the parts of the chicken that they don’t sell in stores in the U.S.   I’ve also been notified that my dragon collection will be displayed at work.

Signs, Signs, Everywhere a Sign

Just like bizarre food updates, occasionally I’ll post pictures of signs that are just not what you would see in the U.S. (I almost said “home”, but as of this week I’m an official Alien Resident of China).  After seeing translated signs all around town, I’m pretty sure it’s not unique to China that when reading the translation you can figure out the meaning via context clues, but it’s not exactly worded like a native speaker.  Anyway, I’m glad that the signs below were even translated!

The first two signs below are telling you to flush the toilet and stay off the grass, the others are more self-explanatory (except the last one, which is a dinner special).

My three sons

I’ve decided they are animals!  At least, they turn into them when I want to take them out to a restaurant and have them sit for a few hours entertaining themselves, while Rebecca and I socialize (go figure).  In the US dining out for us is no big deal; because there is almost always someone else’s child freaking out at the table next to us that makes ours look good by comparison.  In China though, we are the freaks, which is not something I’m used to or really all that fond of.  In most situations we feel we are under the microscope here since our family is so large and full of testosterone.  It makes for a stressful dining experience when the two year old doesn’t act like a little adult.

Any way, Sundays we typically go to lunch with a family or two after church, so we get to test it out every week.  We’ve decided we need to figure out something to keep their little hands off each other, but I don’t want them to turn to electronic devices for their entertainment while at the table.  So far we have come up with something out of the stone ages:  paper and pencils.

Thankfully after a stressful lunch this Sunday evening, I got to take my angst out on Riley by ripping one of his bottom, front teeth out by the roots.  Seriously, he’d been working on it for a few weeks and was very excited that his first one was about to come out.  We found that the Chinese Tooth fairy does give out money, but in RMB…

Our House...is a Very, Very, Very Fine House

I really like our house.  It's a duplex with lots of space for our entire family.  There are wood floors throughout (I've always wanted all wood floors!), there is a separate laundry area (not just a closet), we have a “full size” washing machine and refrigerator, oven and dishwasher (all hard to come by in China), it has a garage, it's fully furnished, has a small fenced-in yard, an office with book shelves, and there's even an extra play area for the boy's toys!  We really feel blessed to have found this place.  To boot, the landlord is extremely nice and accommodating.

There are, however, some quirks about our new home away from home...things that you just don't even think to look for when you're looking for a place in the U.S.  Here they are in no particular order: there aren't any drawers in the kitchen or bathroom (I guess you don't need a silverware drawer when you only eat with chopsticks), there's no coat closet, you have to take off your China-street shoes when you come inside so you need lots of shoe storage at the door, those wood floors get nasty fast (even without shoes on!),   the dryer is half the size of the washing machine (at first I though it was broken, then realized I had put so many clothes in it, it couldn't turn over), the oven is so small our "standard" size baking sheets won't fit!, the dishwasher is so small our dinner plates won't fit!, to say the mattresses are "firm" is an understatement (thank you IKEA for memory foam!), there are a zillion stairs (see picture below), and (big shocker) EVERYTHING IS WRITTEN IN CHINESE!  If we hit a stray button on the TV remote (say, anything other than channel or volume), we have a mini freak out!  We just push buttons on the dishwasher until it sounds like it turns on and then we hope that during the cycle the soap compartment opens (we’re about 50%).  It's not like Spanish or French where you can guess your way through things - its hieroglyphics!

Of course there's a silver lining to every dark cloud - I've been able to go shopping to accommodate our new home and it's strange quirks...it's hard to be upset about that!  Plus, now that the ayi has started, there's someone to clean, wash the dishes and iron clothes.  In fact, I like this house more and more!  Now, if only we can figure out how to set up the karaoke machine that came with the house, we'll be in business!

The Prince

Did you know we have royalty in our family?  Other than the amount of time four men spend on the “throne”, neither did I until we came to China.  It turns out that Rowan, despite his age and stature, is quite the prince!  Everywhere we go, women and men both fawn over our youngest.  He has mastered the words "ni hao" (hello) and "zai jian" (good-bye), which makes him particularly alluring. 

He has gotten used to the attention and really does his best to entertain.  He really only fusses when they try to pick him up and hold him.  That, and when the landlady tried to kiss all over his little creased wrists.  And it's not all bad - someone even gave him a candy bar out of sheer joy over his cuteness; there goes our “never take candy from a stranger” policy.  Hopefully he won't be too disappointed when he gets to be his brother's ages and he's not quite so popular anymore. 

A new friend in the neighborhood said her daughter, who has lived in China over two years and is now four, has a weird obsession with touching Chinese women.  She attributes it to the fact that her daughter no longer gets as much attention from the Chinese as she used to.  Ahh, the life and times of a child star!

Target Withdrawal

Like most American moms I am totally in love with the red bulls-eye.  Everything about it is wonderful.  Where else can you buy all of your household needs, cute decor, entertainment, reasonable clothes, and groceries, all while sipping a fresh Frappuccino from Starbucks?  Even the bags are great for lining your trash can!  It's really the epitome of efficiency.  Everything in one place, and you only have to check-out once. 

Understandably, then, I'm going through some serious Target withdrawals.  There is just nothing quite like it China.  The only thing close is IKEA.  I went there last week with Rowan.  It's a long haul - an hour and a half trip to Shanghai - so I had a seriously detailed list with all the crazy Swedish names of the things I wanted.  I had to ask the poor driver to come inside with me because of all the big items I was getting (bookshelves, etc.).  We got there before it opened, and as I stood there waiting for them to open for shopping, I felt like I was just another one of the cows being herded through the gates!  There are just so many people in Shanghai!!!  I've also found that sales people in large supermarkets are not overly friendly.  They tend to run around in little giggling packs.  Likely, they’re just trying to avoid me because of our language barrier.  I did manage to get some great stuff, though compared to Target it was extremely stressful.  I think Rowan and I both fell asleep on the ride home!

In town there's a Wal-Mart, but it's not exactly like in the states.  In addition to the hanging meat (it stinks!), they just don't have the necessities every good, red-blooded American needs that you get in a Wal-Mart in the states.  I was looking for stuff to hang our new embroidery piece, and the "hardware" section looked like something I'd find in a CVS.  However, they do have an entire section of MSG, as well as multiple shelves of steamers and soy sauce.  Never can have too much of that!  There's also Auchan, which Dave wrote about earlier.  I went back today before lunch during the "non-busy" time - which just means that you're not shoulder to shoulder with people, but it's still ridiculously crowded.  I've been told it's significantly cheaper, but I think I'm going to have to give myself a pep talk every time before I go in there.  I had to treat myself to a Venti Mocha Latte afterward to make myself feel better!  There's no Target, but at least there's still Starbucks!

Wedding Day

It was a great experience to attend a traditional Chinese wedding yesterday.  A few things were obviously different (other than the language barrier):

• No religious ceremony, although there were definitely some ceremonial elements:
• Several people said some words about the couple; I gathered they were family / friends.
• The parents and grandparents were seated in front of the standing couple, who then bowed to them, which I thought was pretty cool actually to show that level of respect for their elders.
• Candles were lighted at a table that had banners, figures, cigarettes, etc.  I gathered from coworkers when I shared the pictures that this was maybe an offering of some kind.
• The traditional music was awesome; the musicians were there the whole day and played at specific times and they dined with us as well.
• Fireworks were plentiful and loud.
• Red is a lucky color; on this day it is typically reserved for the bride and groom.
• Clothing was basically casual.
• The food was overwhelming.  They ended up just stacking it anywhere they could find a spot, see picture below.
• Our table had two families at it and we were given 8 packs of cigarettes total throughout the day.  It was a little odd seeing people just light right up during the ceremony.

I chose not to put a picture up of the happy couple without their permission, but I can assure you that they looked wonderful on their special day!  One really odd thing to note is that the children did not get nearly the same level of attention that they do if we randomly go out in public.  I found this odd since we were out a way from the city and chances are we were more of an anomaly there than our normal stomping grounds.  I was happy for the change though, truthfully, because we didn’t get the feeling that our children were a distraction and we were able to melt right into the crowd for most of the event.  It was nice to not be total freaks for once.

We also got to do some shopping during a lull in the activity where we picked up some embroidered artwork and took a coffee break at a nearby mall.

The Wedding Invite

Oh happy day!  We were invited to a traditional Chinese wedding this Sunday for one of my coworkers.  We’re very excited, but also a more than a little nervous.  Here’s what went through my head:

• Do they realize the amount of havoc that 3 boys who can’t understand anything happening or anyone speaking are capable of wreaking?
• What do we bring as a gift?
• What do we wear?
• Wow, we and one other couple will be the only Americans there.  No pressure, just representing your family, company and country to one of the biggest days of a couple’s life together.

After asking another coworker for advice, and talking to some other expats, I calmed down a bit.  Below is a snippet of the conversation at work (paraphrased):

Me:  “Are flowers a good gift to bring?  I’m not sure what is appropriate for a wedding.”

Other:  “Yes, that’s a great gift.”

Me:  “Do I have to worry about bringing the wrong flower, like one that’s only used for funerals?”

Other:  “No, nothing to worry about.”

Me:  “Really?  That’s easy then.”

Other:  “Well, don’t bring any roses, only the groom gives roses.  You know what?  Maybe it’s better for you to just give money.”

Me:  “Sounds like it, so how much is appropriate?  I don’t want his new wife and family to think poorly of me or the company.”

Other:  “Whatever you think is best.  But, don’t give 250RMB.  In Chinese, the number read aloud sounds like the word for idiot.  Give even numbers only.  The numbers 6 (luck) and 8 (wealth) are good.  The best number is 666.”

HUH??????  Oh man, is this interesting.  I was also told I could wear whatever I want, t-shirt or suit, both are acceptable.  Thankfully the same coworker that helped me above brought in a suitable red envelope (greeting card and cash envelope all in one, same as what we gave the boys for New Years but with a pair of love birds instead of Mickey Mouse).  Also, I’m sure the boys will be a hit, judging by our usual public experiences.  

At the end of the day, it is a huge honor for us; and knowing what gracious hosts the Chinese are, I am absolutely sure that it will be an experience we will never forget.  I’ll post the follow up after we go.

First Day of School

Today ReRiRo headed off to school!  You can see in the picture below that the oldest two have to wear uniforms; yes that is Reid in a tie.  Below is their favorite thing about school:

Rowan – riding the bus (he does 1/2 days three times a week)

Riley – nothing (although he did end up heading right over to a brand new friend’s house afterwards where he played Legos with several females for a few hours).

Reid – P.E.  He said for the rest of the year they will focus on soccer and rugby.  He also brought home several books from the library – Vampirates and The Lord of the Rings.

All in all, they said they had a great day.  I also feel compelled to share that Rowan got several new pairs of underwear.  Nothing newsworthy except that Rebecca got them from a “European” store, which basically means that a McLain is now loose in China sporting some Speedos.  Common decency as well as the social and professional implications prevent me from posting the pictures, but rest assured I have them and I am prepared to share them at his wedding…

A Super Breakfast

We had to wake up early to catch the Super Bowl Monday morning.  Zapata’s was serving breakfast and had the game on live.  The breakfast burrito was excellent, albeit a little late since they ran out of eggs due to the “crowd” of about 50 people.  Big turn out for an American football game…

Bizarre Food Update

I love the show!  Over the coming years, I’ll post some of our food experiences.  Below is Riley with a chicken head.  He ate some of the brain (tasted like meat according to him) and the entire cockscomb (top of the head).  I’m a bad parental influence.  Also, below are Reid and Riley in the supermarket where you can pick up a pig face if you’re so inclined.  That’s still a little advanced for us to bring home yet…

The Park in Times Square

Today we went to a park in the middle of a shopping district close to the house called “Times Square”.  Rowan of course got a lot of attention; there were a few rides in particular that he liked and every time he got on one, a little girl was placed within camera view of him.  I counted no less than a dozen partners for him; below are a few I took myself.  I also discovered that there is no such thing as a Chinese girl that isn’t completely adorable, even if deep down I know my youngest is just eye candy to them.

Also, Reid and Riley finally got some attention from the locals by going to the other side of the park and providing the horsepower for a bench swing.  Reid noticed that they too had children being placed in the swing for a photo op.

On the way to the taxi, we picked up an ice cream and were asked if a woman and her mother could take a picture with all three.  We should be charging for this.

Tiger Hill – New Years Day

I did some research and got some advice from coworkers on where to go for New Years.  We ended up at Tiger Hill, self proclaimed # 1 tourist site in Suzhou.  We were promised a festival with dancing and traditional Chinese performances.  After a 20 minute taxi ride, we found ourselves deep in Old Town Suzhou.  The festival was fairly weak, with basically food vendors and carnival games, so we headed straight for the pagoda.

Below are some of the choice pictures from the site, including one of the several cameos that Rowan took with complete strangers.  You’ll read in coming blogs that he is becoming quite the celebrity.  He was already outgoing and so has embraced his new found popularity.

Also, he has decided that he should no longer walk and instead prefers my shoulders to the more pedestrian use of his own legs.  While some of you may be thinking to yourselves that I was always a bit of a jack***, I prefer to picture me more as a noble elephant doing his humble duty to the monarch that lowers himself by placing his rump in contact with my lowly personage.

My back hurts.  It’s either his Royal Highness has put on a few kilos or the fact that the bed is as hard as the floor…

New Years Eve (Feb. 1)

Man, I’m glad I ruined dinner!  Planning on making some “authentic” fried rice, I started early by cooking the rice in our microwave rice cooker.  Normally it always turns out perfectly cooked, but when I doubled the recipe it came out all gummy.  Ah well, we scrambled and headed to Zapata’s (yes, we already found one of several Mexican restaurants in town).  It’s located on the waterfront and I figured we’d see some people walking around shooting off fire works here and there.  Wrong again!

Man, what an experience!  Right after we ordered food, several people began lighting lanterns and sending them to the sky.  We ran outside and took the below photos.  I read in a magazine that they were sending their New Year wishes to the heavens.  By the time we finished eating, there were close to a dozen of them in the sky.

As we ended the meal, one of the restaurant owners stopped by to check in on the table and ended up giving the kids some sparklers and roman candles, which of course delighted them.  He also mentioned that there would be a fireworks display and then they would do the waterfront light show normally reserved for the weekends.  The fire works were great; although truth be told, nothing rivals the Jamestown 400 Year Anniversary fireworks.  The light show is another matter.  It is nothing short of spectacular and a must see for all visitors!  A picture or two are below, but you can find videos on YouTube if you search “Suzhou light show”.  Total, everything lasted about 45 minutes, which coincidentally is about how long it took us to find a taxi afterwards!

Sadly, I have grown a little tired of fireworks.  For about five days they did not stop at all, and by not stop, I mean they go continuously all night and day right outside the house.  The final picture was taken on our balcony so you can see how close the bombs are going off…